Viceta Wang's latest collection depicts an odyssey of evolution detailing the poetic journey of a butterfly's transformation brimming with couture prowess
Following a very successful debut in Melbourne Fashion Week, alongside the most influential Australian fashion brands, Viceta Wang cemented itself as a prominent luxury label. Viceta’s Urban Garden runway was one of the highlights of the Melburnian Fashion Week, praised and featured in major publications like Harper’s Bazaar and The Australian, leaving the audience at Wesley Place eager to know more about the designer and the inspiration and process behind her unique couture-level pieces.
And if the Melbourne Fashion Week presentation was a sneak-peak into the very poetic collection, Viceta Wang’s Metamorphosis Spring Summer 23 show allowed the audience to be able to witness the full collection in depth. Composed by more than 60 exclusive pieces, the presentation painted a larger picture of the theme that inspired the designer and took the audience on a journey of exploration using subtle visual storytelling through clothes.
The setting for the “Metamorphosis” presentation was as magnificent as the clothes that were presented. The grand foyer of the venue was transformed in an alluring runway. High ceilings and windows overlooking the iconic Yarra River created a distinguished and elegant atmosphere.
A stunning ballet presentation opened the show. Young talented ballerinas presented a graceful choreography that was a tease for the clothes we were about to watch on the runway. Their moves, light as air and delicate, just like a butterfly, instantly transported us to the Metamorphosis world of Viceta Wang.
The “Metamorphosis” collection is indeed visually stunning, but when you add the poetic backstory and inspiration behind the designs, the clothes come to life telling a story that pays homage to the butterfly cycle as a reflection of the journey, we, as individuals, go through in our lives. Movement, changes, transformation. Viceta Wang’s Spring Summer 2023 show used the metaphor to take the audience on an odyssey of evolution, more specifically, the enchanted evolution of a butterfly. Building a collection that proved to be brimming with playful reinterpretations of those winged beauties and rich with inventive technique and craftsmanship.
Each section of garments that strutted down the runway represented different stages of the transitional development of a butterfly. From the egg and caterpillar, to the chrysalis and its eclosion, culminating in the beautifully gracious creature opening its wings.
It was an assemblage of soft and powerful fabrics and contrasts, and beautifully executed silhouettes with mesmerizing details. A triumph of audacious colour and form, flawless craftsmanship and bravura statements of beauty and uniqueness. Viceta Wang’s limited edition made-to-order creations are a testament of a fashion that honours craft, and equally important, sustainability.
A combination of a vivacious and subdued colour palette sectioned the collection into it’s respective phases. The first development stages of the butterfly were portrayed by a subdued colour palette. Crisp whites, soft greens and neutral earth tones represented the eggs, caterpillar and chrysalis stages, respectively. High-spirited colours then burst forth, like a butterfly opening its wings, concluding the metamorphosis.
Beautifully crafted crisp white compositions opened the show, referencing the first stage of the butterfly cycle. Pearls served as a reference to small butterfly eggs. These were hand-embroidered in a long sleeve top that was paired with a shiny taffeta skirt that featured long slits, and in a tailored black jumpsuit. The same pearls were delicately applied all over an exquisite silk jacket.
An example of Viceta’s ability to mix traditional ideas with a contemporary and unique aesthetic.
The sophisticated introduction of green that followed symbolised the caterpillar stage. The shiny silk and organza pieces were evocative and instantly captured the attention of the room. A beautifully crafted and realistic metal butterfly adorned thin belts and brought a focus to the waist. Asymmetry on the skirts and volume on the sleeves added modernity to the designs on a spectrum of femininity.
Fluidity was then interspaced with taffeta structured pieces and a focus on round forms and curved cutouts. The garments involved, embraced and shielded the body on a symbolic imagery that signalled the chrysalis stage. The gentle texture reminded me of the inside of a cocoon. The subdued floral motif prints and neutral colours were a preparation for what came next.
The clothes gradually became more decorated and vibrant as they morphed into the butterfly stage. Structured accents were interspersed with fluidity. Lightweight long silk dresses floated down the runway in what reminded me of the gracious movement of butterflies, evoking a sense of a poetic freedom. The butterfly motif was spotted on winglike protrusions from shoulders and draped sleeves, literal interpretations of butterflies decorated the bust of dresses, and the prints were fluid and abstract, adding softness to the designs.
An incredible aspect of the brand is that Viceta gives its clients the opportunity to customise their own prints, co-creating bespoke designs that are unique and ignite meaningful personal connections with the garments.
Perhaps the final outfits were the true stars of the show. Viceta relied on the crisp taffeta fabric to play with forms, adding voluminous shoulder accents and embodying a literal take on the shape of the gracious creature. Playful ideas that belied the workmanship behind them and added an edge to the otherwise saccharine-sweet theme. The closing piece, a long pink voluptuous butterfly dress, was the star of Melbourne Fashion Week, amassing attention of the public and the fashion media. It deserved its spotlight closing the Viceta Wang SS23 Presentation. The dress required 3 months to be designed and developed in Viceta Wang’s international atelier and the handmade process takes the tailors 3-4 days to conclude.
It goes to show that Viceta Wang’s luxury designs are masterpieces and true exemplars of couture-level skills, rare attributes in today’s fashion industry.
For all the intensity and lavishness of its butterfly imagery, the collection was an epic poetic reverie, but also, surprisingly commercial while exuding authenticity. Viceta’s work is invariably compelling, and grounded in optimism, freedom and inspiration. Her feminine designs were not only a pronouncement about empowerment and romanticism, but a fashion that aids and abet us all our various disguises, battles and triumphs. Metamorphosis marks our individuality, and on a deeper level, represents one’s own evolution towards the path of becoming the best version of ourselves.
Viceta Wang’s strong tailoring and elegant designs are for the modern woman who appreciates and celebrates elevated creations and is not afraid of flaunting her uniqueness.
A special thanks goes out to the valued partners who helped bring this event to fruition; Paspaley, Jimmy Choo, The Masters Institute of Creative Education, LCI Melbourne, Sofi Carfi, and Todd Anthony.
WORDS BY ALESKA SERVIAN